Meet Philippine. You might know her as founder of C'est Beau Chez Toi, a home styling studio based in San Francisco. Or you may know her as a creative director working with some brands you know and love.
We know her as our cool friend with great taste. We've worked with Philippine for years developing our sourcing trips in the French countryside and she always brings us something new. This summer, she is spending time in France with friends and family as she does each year.
Lucky for us, she's sharing some of her favorite places and experiences from her summer travels.
A Day in Rodez: My Introduction to Summer in Aveyron
I'm a true Parisian - born and raised in the 7th arrondissement - but my roots run deep in Aveyron, a rural region in south-central France. Since childhood, I've spent my summers here, about two hours northeast of Toulouse, where rolling hills meet ancient villages.
This summer, I'll take you to this region of Aveyron and our family village of Montrozier, where 12 generations of my family have lived, to show you the French country summer lifestyle that can't be taught - only inherited.
Our family village of Montrozier sits just 15 minutes from Rodez, the region's capital. While Montrozier is where I find my creative inspiration, Rodez is where I go when I need the energy of a market town - Wednesday and Saturday mornings.
This is my first post in a summer series showing how the French really do summer, away from the tourist circuits. Today: a day trip to Rodez.
Saturday Market
I always begin in Place du Bourg for the weekly farmers' market, where artisans, producers and organic food vendors gather. This isn't a curated artisan market - it's where locals shop. The same vendors have held spots here for decades, selling what's actually in season from local farms.
In summer I find the best tomatoes, earthy and sweet. The cheese vendors offer the holy trinity of local specialties - Roquefort (we're in its birthplace here), Laguiole, and Cantal - alongside fresh goat cheese from local farms. For immediate indulgence, I grab farcous (herb-filled pancakes) or rissoles aux pruneaux (prune pastries) to eat on the spot. For home, there's always aligot - that impossibly stretchy blend of mashed potatoes and cheese that defines Aveyron comfort food. But the main reason for my visit is to pick up the pain de Talou (see my next post on these artisans).
Calmels: Authentic Laguiole Knives
After the market, I head to Calmels - a right of passage in our family. This is where everyone of us received our first Laguiole pocket knife. Today I like to treat our home to a new bread knife or other specialty they may have. I also like picking up gifts, but always make sure to collect a coin from my friend, to avoid cutting our friendship as the local tradition says. Not tourist versions, but real ones made by local craftsmen. Each knife is signed by its maker. These aren't just tools - they're objects you pass down through generations.
Brocante Treasures
"Au vieux Rodez" is the brocante (antique shop) I always visit. The owner, René Vernhes, is someone we have been seeing at markets all over France while we shop for Elsie Green - he is a known figure in the business. He has a good eye for pieces with character - vintage linens, brass items with the right patina, ceramics that actually get better with age.
Rodez Cathedral
The Gothic cathedral's red sandstone tower dominates Rodez's skyline. Worth seeing for the architecture.
Lunch at Michel Bras Café
For lunch, I stop at Michel Bras café - a casual and inexpensive way to experience the world famous local chef Michel Bras.
Soulages Museum
From there, I walk to the Soulages Museum, dedicated to Pierre Soulages, the painter who calls his work "outrenoir" - beyond black.
The building itself is architecturally striking - designed by RCR Arquitectes (the 2017 Pritzker Prize winners) and clad entirely in Corten steel. The Corten steel's patina bears the mark of time and fits perfectly into the plant environment of the park, its chromaticism reminiscent of the pink sandstone of Rodez itself. The material ages with time and reflects Pierre Soulages' work - there's an intentional dialogue between the weathering steel facade and the artist's exploration of black and texture.
Soulages grew up in this region, and you can see how the quality of light here, the way shadows fall across stone buildings, influenced his work. Local roots creating international art.
Monoprix Pit Stop
A quick stop at Monoprix - the French Target - for practical necessities. What I love about Monoprix is their home line but also their clothing for the entire family. It's always worth browsing their seasonal collections.
Family History at Fenaille Museum
The Fenaille Museum holds personal significance - my great-grandfather Maurice Fenaille was a major patron whose collection helped establish it. Maurice Fenaille was also Auguste Rodin's patron, and at the museum you can see the various busts Rodin sculpted of my great-grandmother. The museum houses ancient stone sculptures and artifacts that tell this region's history, from prehistoric times through the medieval period.
Walking through galleries that exist partly because of my family's commitment to preserving regional culture - and seeing Rodin's intimate portraits of my great-grandmother - adds weight to every visit. It's a reminder that cultural preservation happens through individual choices, not just institutional decisions.
What This Day Represents
This isn't a curated experience designed for visitors. It's how we actually spend time here - market for ingredients, shopping for things we'll actually use, casual lunch, museum visits that connect to family history.
The rhythm matters as much as the activities. Starting early at the market, taking time for conversation, allowing the day to unfold without rushing. This is the real French art de vivre - not performance, just a different relationship with time.
Getting There Airport: Rodez-Aveyron Airport, https://www.aeroport-
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